Humor

Loewe has a sense of humor for Spring 2023

Grab the collection’s anthurium-embellished bra tops as the new street-style “It” item.

Loewe Printemps 2023.

<p>Photo: Imaxtree</p>
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Loewe Spring 2023.

Photo: Imaxtree

It’s been nearly a decade since Jonathan Anderson took over Loewe, then a sleepy, century-and-a-half-old Spanish house known for its leather goods. He’s been in no rush, steadily but ambitiously, to transform the house into an innovative “It” brand that delivers confident silhouettes and buzzy fashion plays in equal measure. He made Loewe one of the hottest tickets to Paris Fashion Week, staging elegant and often intimate shows that leave attendees elated. (For LVMH, the proof is in the calfskin pudding: Since Anderson took over, Loewe’s annual revenue has quintupled, according to The Cut.)

Despite his creative and commercial success, Loewe didn’t step too far out of his comfort zone. The closest, perhaps, came in the form of a selection of slipped torso appendages on its Spring 2022 runway – a shot of surrealism, followed by the same minimal, calm silhouettes for which Loewe has recently won acclaim. . In Paris on Friday, the brand took its biggest risk yet, presenting a collection of smart and humorous looks that served up Anderson’s signatures, with a roaring twist.

Spring 2023 demonstrates three distinct streams of thought that were perhaps floating around the workshop at the time of development. There are the swingy, pleated mini-dresses, offering perhaps LVMH’s own riff on Miu Miu’s ubiquitous micro-skirt, topped with tennis-ready collars in a range of fabrications and shades. There are the brilliantly pixelated looks, like an oversized t-shirt and hoodie that are sure to become the new go-to street style. And there are, of course, anthurium plants — and plenty of them — adorning delicate bodices here and there. In between come the gracefully utilitarian products that Loewe do best, like a series of structural yet puffy dresses, an effective case study of juxtaposition on the runway.

The collection isn’t exactly cohesive, at least on paper, but with such a fun and clearly well-articulated range, who cares? I can bet you LVMH doesn’t, and neither do the many celebrities – like Emma Chamberlain, Jennifer Coolidge, Charli XCX, Hal Baddie and Maude Apatow – who came to see and be seen in the front row. (Luca Guadagnino’s recent muse, Taylor Russell, opened the show.) After all, it’s going to sell out no matter what.

See Loewe’s Spring 2023 show in more detail below.



<p>Loewe Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree</p>
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Loewe Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree

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